Also, I have no patience for making a dough that’s solely used to seal steam. I’m not sure why I resisted making biryani at home for so long – probably it’s the long ingredient list and multiple stages of cooking. One camp maintains that biryani made without meat is most definitely pulao, while the other soldiers on making all sorts of variations cooking biryani with vegetables and sometimes with egg or even paneer. The idea is that the steam produced by the layers of meat gravy rise, further tenderising the meat and rice, and then condenses, keeping everything in the pot from drying out.ĭoes that still work if there is no meat and therefore no meat stock? This is another area that’s up for debate. When cooking for big crowds, the layers would be repeated twice or even thrice depending on the depth of your utensil before being sealed with a simple dough and being slow-cooked a final time.
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The meat goes in first, followed by a layer of fried shallots and saffron water – and fried cashews if you want to go all out – which is followed by rice. Unlike pulao, where both meat and rice are cooked together, biryani is layered. Dum pukht literally translates to “breathe and cook” in Hindi and pakki stands for ripe or already cooked. A Delhi biryani vendor (Photo: Nasir Kachroo/NurPhoto via Getty Images)īiryani’s signature flavour comes from its “pakki-dum-pukht” style of cooking. Go to any Indian party and you’ll find a middle-aged uncle or aunty making the case for how the biryani they ate from such-and-such place is actually the best one there is.
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It’s a dish that both unites and divides and is the source of endless debates. Hyderabadi, Mumbai, Awadhi, Thalasserary – there are so many different styles of biryani to choose from. In a country where the food you eat changes every 100km, biryani is a dish we all eat, and one that continues to evolve. Lucknow, a city in Uttar Pradesh, claims to be the home of biryani – though in typical Indian fashion, so do Kolkata and Hyderabad. Legend has it that Queen Mumtaz Mahal once visited her army troops only to find out the soldiers were undernourished, so she asked the cooks to create a dish that featured both meat and rice and what originated was biryani. It’s widely believed that biryani has its origin in Persia, and was introduced to the Indian subcontinent by the Mughals. While Jaffer Bhai – fondly known as the Biryani King of Mumbai – passed away in 2020, his restaurant established in 1973 continues to serve biryani that’s consistently out of this world. My grandpa, the OG food connoisseur, taught me that if there was a party worthy of biryani, it had to be ordered from Jaffer Bhai’s Delhi Darbar on Grant Road, Mumbai. Not quite the same experience when cooked at home in small quantities. Digging around a big pot of biryani for that perfectly succulent piece of lamb before someone else steals it. Imagine: a heady aroma of whole spices slow-cooking, the vibrant colour of marinated meat cooking in its own juices, and long grains of rice bringing everything together. That’s because it tastes best when cooked slowly, ideally in a large copper handi over a wood fire. Growing up, biryani was not something we ate regularly or cooked at home. One more meal conundrum solved!Ī celebration of all that’s great about Indian food But what I loved the most was that there’s almost always enough leftovers for Saturday lunch. As for me, there’s nothing that satisfies my Indian soul more than a bowl of rice. The juicy, almost-falling-apart pieces of lamb loved by my “I need to eat meat everyday” husband. The fluffy, yellow-tinged aromatic rice at the top, sitting among a bed of boiled eggs, was perfect for my spice-hating toddler.
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Last year, I cracked it: we started ordering biryani. The challenge, of course, is ordering something that everyone will eat. Perzen Patel on the iconic dish that both unites and divides India.įriday nights are takeaway nights in my household – there’s simply not enough steam in the parent engine to cook one more meal.